FordRamAir.com

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I am very interested in your product. I am doing a resto mod on a 67 Cougar. It has a 289 small block. I am needing to know if it (Shaker) will fit on this engine application. It says that the 302 will work. I was needing a list of everything that would make it work. And what parts that don't come with it that I will also have to purchase. Will this be a fully functioning shaker scoop??

The 289 and the 302 are exactly the same size so you won't have a problem putting on a shaker. You can use the Torino base to get the right height. The shaker kit come pretty complete, it includes

There's no flapper door or motor. You'll need to supply the air filter. My shakers are full time ram air unlike the factory units which where only ram air under full throttle. This way you get cool fresh air while you're driving down the highway or stopped at a light.

Yes. While this part was made to fit a shaker it will also fit all ram air bases by shortening the vacuum nipple.

Pretty damn close ! If you want the best possible appearance then spend a little time wet sanding the lower counours. After than you'll have to pluck it to tell.

Actually you can bolt down the shaker and go as they come already painted. You will have to paint the steel air filter lid as it comes bare steel.

Building 69 fastback, built 428cj with Edelbrock alumn. heads, Edelbrock intake, yet to buy carb. Have brand new Ford tooling hood, can I install your shaker? Any issues? Hieght? etc? Car is completely tore apart ready to paint, aka engine is out , can I safely use template cut hood etc, and have it fit when I assemble car ? Everything will be painted in pieces.

As long as you use a stock height intake like the performer you should be OK. The template I supply with each shaker is a copy of the original Ford template and it is accurate. I've had a few hundred customers use it with not one single problem . At least not one that was because the template was inaccurate. I did have a couple customers who managed to do it wrong but they seemed to have put great effort into their failure. It seemed almost deliberate.

How does rain/water affect your ram air set-up, whereas the factory had flappers. I understand yours is always open-per your web page. I imagine the water may collect inside the bottom bowl---but not actually get into filter/carb. Is this correct?

It's pretty hard for water to reach the air cleaner since it has to pass through the scoops and up into the plenum before landing on the air cleaner lid where it drips off into tha base and out the drain holes. Unless you drive into a really heavy rain I doubt you'll get any water to the base. However if you spray water into the scoop while washing you will.

I'm checking back with you regarding a ram air set up for a 69 GT-500. If you look for an original, those who have one should be wearing ski masks for what they're asking. I like the look of your units. I think it's a cost effictive alternative. Please let me know if you have something.

I agree with you but they should also branish at least a plastic knife or spork as well. I tooks some pics of one at a car show recently but it was for a GT350. If you can give me a measurement of the distance from the top of your carb to the hood I can see what I can do. I'm confident I can come up with something that'll look good and function.

What is the best way to cut the hood and do you have a template. Is there somewhere I can see were to locate the placement on hood?

You should a sabre saw with a fine tooth blade of 32 tpi after you use a hole saw to make the initial opening. Yes, a hood templates is included as well as a trim ring to finsh off the hole.

On my 351C, 69 Mach I, can I run a Performer intake and at least a 1/2 in spacer?

No, not as delivered anyway. You'll have to mill down the air horn until the base sits on top of the fuel bowl, then you stand a chance.

I have a 1967 Cougar with a 351 Windsor, what I am curious about is if you know of anyone that has installed one on theirs, is it functional, is the trim for the hood included

Thanks for your interest in our products. All the Shakers and Ram Air units we sell are fully functional, more so that the originals. The Ford units used the flapper & vacuum motor to block air flow all times except
under full throttle or zero vacuum. What this means to you is no ram air unless you've got the throttle nailed. With our units there is no flapper door so you get ram air full time, all the time. That means cool dense
outside air when you're driving down the highway or stopped at a light. I've seen a few shakers installed on Cougars and they looked good. If you want to use the trim ring you'll need to have a body man modify it to fit your hood lines.

The original 72 Mach 1 had a vacuum line do you guys offer this and I was wondering what happens when it rains does the water go inside the carb?

My hood ducts don't have the flappers so they don't require the actuators or vacuum lines. Any rain that were to pass through the scoops would hit the air cleaner lid, run off the top into the base and run out of the drain holes. The stock air filter is 1" smaller in dia. so there's a 1/2" lip all around the filter so the lid acts like an umbrella keeps the filter dry.

Does under hood heat affect your shaker?

No. Even though under hood heat can be quite considerable especially with headers and A/C it has no affect on any of our products. Only the highest quality gel coats, resins and fiberglass are used.

You may here tell of such curiosities like distortion or blistering but they don't exist on any of out products. If you take a closer look at who's saying this foolishness you'll usually find that they are selling original units and don't want you to have an option to their high dollar parts. Judge for yourself. I'm so confident in the quality of my products I offer that if you don't like it you can return it for the full purchase price.

Will it fit my car?

Most likely yes. These shakers have been installed on 65 to 73 Mustangs, 70-71 Torino's, 67-71 Cougars, 64-68 Falcons and more. While some required and air cleaner spacer to obtain the desired shaker scoop height most 65-70 customers were very happy with it as is.

What's the difference between the big block and small block shakers? Can they interchange?

The big block has no offset build it so when you mount it on your engine the scoop will be in the wrong place in relation to the hood (too close to the firewall) plus the big block is designed for a taller engine so it will sit lower in relation to the hood line. If you're doing a non-factory installation with a high rise intake then you might have to use the big block shaker to compensate for the rise of the intake but since it's non-factory you can match the hood cut out to the shaker without being out of spec.

Yes, my 351C and 351W units will cover the gauntlet of small blocks as long as they maintain a fairly stock configuration. By this I mean no Victor Jr. or other high rise intakes. When used on shorter engines like 289'S and 302's an air cleaner or carb spacer is used to raise it to the desired height. Final adjustments can be made with carb gaskets as they range from paper thin to 1/4" thick.

Will your shakers clear a Holley , Demon, Carter or Edelbrock carb ?

Yes, just like the originals they will clear Holley, Demon, Carter (4V) and Edelbrock carbs.

No, and neither does anyone else. Shakers were not designed for high rise intakes. If you're running a 302 with a Victor Jr. you should just get by but not with a 351C or 351W.

How do I cut the hole in my hood?

For 67-70 mustangs the easiest way is to use the hood template. On other models you need to mount the shaker in the carb and measure from the firewall or another fixed point to the back of the shaker scoop. Remove the shaker, close the hood, use the measurement you just took and mark it on the hood, Line up the back of the trim ring with your mark and outline the cut. I recommend cutting the hole smaller first and test fit the shaker and trim as needed.

Will your shaker work on my 302 with a Victor Jr.?

When you get to this level it all comes down to dimensions. Simply put you need a certain space between your carb & hood to run a Shaker. The bare abloslute minimum is aprox. 3 1/2". I've sold several shakers for this application with positive results.

The trim ring is a bond on affair. After the hood hole is cut and your shaker is secured in it's proper position, apply an adhesive or sealer to the inside bottom of the trim ring. Use a narrow bead like 1/4" . Put the trim ring in place, adjust as necessary and apply tape to keep it from moving. I do not recommend using quick dry adhesives as they greatly reduce your working time. You need to take your time and be sure you're satisfied with the fit because it will soon be permanent. Also be sure you primed & painted all bare metal to prevent corrosion.

Do you have a shaker to fit a 302 , Boss 302 , 351C, 351W , 390, 428 & 429-460 ?

YES. I have shakers specifically for the Boss 302, 351C , 351W & 428CJ just like Ford did. You can use the 428 shaker for the 390 and use a thick carb gasket to compensate for the 1/4" of height difference.

For the 429-460, Not specifically. If you're running an intake that is stock in height you can squeak by with the big block shaker but it will sit a little higher than normal due to the 385 series engine being a bit taller than the FE. You can mill off some of the air horn so the base will sit right on top of the carb. This will put you at an almost stock height.

Do you have a trim ring for cars other that 69-70 Mustang?

No. As there are so many possible applications for shakers I can't offer a trim ring for every one. I've found it's not so hard to mod the supplied trim ring. It takes a little patience and sometimes some trial and error but if you're willing to work with resin & fiberglass cloth I think you'll find the results well worth it. Something I've also found to work well is door edge trim molding when cut & fit properly.

Yes but you have to slot the rear mounting ears though as they come drilled with a 45' angle for use on our mid plates.

Will your mid plate interchange with the Ford original?

Yes. When you buy an individual mid plate it comes without the base mounting holes drilled. This is so it will fit all the bases.

Yes. We're currently working on a new mid plate that will more easily accept the flapper components.

Yes, I have the 67-70 428 and 71 429 Cougar ram air units as well as 68-69 428 and 70-71 429 Cyclone unit.

The shaker base will clear the factory late model cap with no problems but if your running a extra large cap like a MSD then you have a problem. If it doesn't clear your factory air cleaner then it won't clear mine.

Is it possible to get just the fiberglass shaker scoop itself? the reason I ask is that I plan on putting one on a 94 Thunderbird so I'm going to have to fabricate everything underneath it.

Do you have anything that would make your shaker work on a newer 5.0 fuel injected Mustang? I have a 92 LX Convertible with the factory plenum on the 5.0 and would love to install your shaker on the factory engine and have it function correctly as far as looks only, could you help?

If it's looks only the shaker scoop & seal can be mounted to a plate and attached to your upper intake. It'll look right with the hood closed but be obviously bogus when exposed. I started working on an adapter plenum that would attach under the shaker scoop and allow you to run a 4" hose to your factory air box. I've been so busy with so many other projects I put it off . Is this something you think more 5.0 guys might be interested in ?

My first car was a 67 Galaxie 2dr ht, green with a white interior, it's one of my favorites. I think with the pointy front end of your car will look best with the Torino shaker.

If you can get me a measurement from the top of the carb to the hood I can figure out which base to use.

I'm not sure regarding the height but with all my units if it doesn't fit you can return it. I'll need to know the distance from the top of the carb to the hood to know for sure.

I am looking for a base , snorkle ,and s tube for my 1969 Shelby Gt 500. Do you make any of this repo? Could you also quote a price?

Leon, do you consider 351C big block, thinking of a ram air for my 72 Mach

The midplates are the same but two mounting holes are in a different location. Mustangs have holes at 3-6-& 9 o'clock while Torinos use 2-6-& 10 o'clock positions.

Is the shaker flapper made of steel, does it come with the rod and clips? is the vacuum actuator a repro? Do you sell any original steel bases?

Yes, the flapper is steel and includes the rod. The actuator is also a repop. Sometimes I sell off extra gennie parts. Drop me line with your needs.

I have a 1977 F150 4x4 that I am rebuilding. It currently has a 300 L6 that will be swapped for either a 351C or an FE. Has anyone you know of ever put your shakers on a similar truck? Does the shaker rise far enough above the hood? Are there any issues with rain getting into the engine bay? Sorry for all of the questions, but I would like to use a shaker hood scoop if possible. Please feel free to offer you opinion or suggestions.

The only problem with installing it in your truck will be the height. There's a mile from the top of the shaker to your hood line. To over come
this you'd either have to make an air cleaner spacer or cut and stretch the fiberglass base. Stretching the base isn't really hard but it will look
kinda odd with the hood open. There's been no issues with rain getting into the engine and any that gets into the shaker will land on the air cleaner lid and drain off into the base and out the drain holes. I hope this helps.

Other than the base the rest of the Mustang shaker parts are the same meaning the midplate, scoop ect will interchange.

The conversion ring will fit only a 17" base and provides the stud mounts for the midplate. The conversion ring should but you close to the correct base height as well. I use carb gaskets to make final adjustments as they come in thicknesses from paper thin to 1/4". I hope this helps.